Unique art or uninspired copy

Normally at this point in the month I would be blogging about my latest HWA challenge. Unfortunately however I missed this months meeting, and I was gutted about it. It would of been ok if I had made other plans and simply decided to give it a miss this month. But no, I simply forgot. It completely slipped my mind, going about my ‘normal’ Monday evening routine, until about 10.30pm when I looked across my coffee table and saw my wine bottle coaster Which I should of taken to get critiqued.

Any how, to console me from my failure to attend, Kat decided that she would set me a task for this month. Her criteria were

It must have no functional purpose
It must involved off-centre turning
and it must use at least 2 colours of wood.

That’s a pretty broad brief in some ways, and pretty vague in others. I am not an artist and normally adhere to ‘form follows function’ But what does form follow if there is no function??

I sat down with my trusty makers notebook and started sketching out some ideas, at first this was little more than shapes, whilst I groped for inspiration.
Eventually I came up with two ideas I liked. And so far I have made the first one.

I decided for this project not to take any pictures of the making process. I’m not sure why but it seemed that unlike a functional piece, as a piece of art it should evolve naturally and only be seen in its final form.

The road to making the initial idea into reality was not easy. I first made the bottom piece from a slice of spalted beach. This looked fantastic, except that it was really flaky and impossible to get a good finish. Several sections, particularly at the bottom of the ripples looked fairly bad when finished. I guess I need to learn about wood stabilising if I want to get much use out of the remaining beach that I have. It’s unlikely that the rest will be much different.

Ultimately I used a piece of oak, this particular piece came from a colleague at work who gave me a couple of branches he’d cut down at his mothers house. It had cracked quite badly, but I’m learning to live with that as a by-product of working with smaller branches that are given to me. And sometimes a crack can enhance a piece, in this case I quite like what it adds to the aesthetic, the ripples were intended to show the wood as fluid, reacting to the impact of the droplet. Having a crack run to the centre of the ripples is a nice contrast.

Originally the piece of oak was much thicker, I had intended to have a bowl like finish beneath the centre, with the offcentre section ‘floating’ But I decided this looked far too chunky, instead slicing it to be much thinner and placed on a small stand to make it all float slightly off the surface.

But here is my quandary, and the reason for the title of this blog post. Is it art? I freely confess that I was inspired by a piece I saw in January’s woodturning magazine(p38) by Martin Edwards
That piece was beautiful, showing ripples in wood and ‘droplets’ hanging off the rim. It was crafted to a much higher standard than my piece.
So what is the line between ‘inspired by’ and ‘copy of’. Many paintings are all of the same things, houses, landscapes, people etc. By that standard I’d say my piece is art. After all nobody looked at the Mona Lisa and said ‘great, another picture of a woman… Seen one, seen em’all’
However by my own ‘nonartyness’ having seen the process I went through, it feels like I just followed some simple rules. Take an idea I’ve seen, apply the guidelines provided for this project and presto.

That said my second idea is something I don’t think I’ve seen before. It’s still evolvinng in my mind and I have no idea if I even have the skill required to make it. The first attempt to make one part of it failed utterly to work out they was I imagined. And so I’m already re-working things. I guess I will see how I get on, and decided at the end if it feels any more ‘art’ like than this.

Side table project

Recently I got new carpet in my living room, whilst this may seem unconnected from a side table project it was in fact the catalyst that got me started. Not only did I get new carpet but I also switched my sofa covers to a different colour. You see having made such a drastic improvement/change to the look of my living room I started to review everything else in it.
One thing that needs improving is my coffee table. Some time ago I decided to make myself a ‘temporary’ coffee table from some bit and bobs I had laying around the garage. Some paint’n'grain effect MDF from an old desk, and some 3×2 spruce.
The result was a functional coffee table that didn’t take long to build. I even made it with a removable top that could be replaced by a larger one with green baize covering it.
This temporary solution has remained, as temporary solutions always do, for some considerable time now (something like 2 years).
And whilst it is functional, it is not pretty. So I’ve started thinking about replacing the coffee table. And one of the options I considered was making one myself…

Now if you’ve been paying attention this post is titled ’side table project’ not ‘coffee table project’
The reason is simple, I’m not convinced that I could do a nice enough job to make a ‘good’ coffee table. And I’m unwilling to spend lots on raw materials to find that out. Also my other half has found a really nice oak coffee table that I would stand no chance of replicating (it has a cool counterbalanced top that can be swung up and off whilst remaining horizontal).
So to practice my skills, and see what I can achieve I decided to make a replacement for another table in my living room which I do not like.

The side table sits next to the sofa and holds a few sundry items like the phone. It is cheap black metal frame and glass top. I’ve had it for a long time, and I really don’t like it any more. I’ve totally grown out of the glass surfaces thing. They almost never look good except for the 10 seconds between cleaning them thoroughly and the first fingerprint. So this is what I have set out to replace.

I am making mine a little taller, and a little narrower than the one it replaces. Since I’m making it from scratch I might as well make it as perfect as possible for the space. This is the luxury of making things for yourself, you get to have them exactly right for where you want them.

I also wanted to integrate some wood turning into the design, since that is my primary hobby. So I have decided to make it with ‘pseudo-cabriolet‘ legs. Which I saw demonstrated last September at the HWA meeting.
Only the demonstration I saw was on quite a short leg for a small stool or something. I’m making mine 550mm, the principal is the same but accuracy can be an issue, any slight difference in the centering has an amplified effect.

I can say now that I’m not terribly happy with how I did with turning them. 2 came out pretty well, and 2 did not. I don’t have the wood or the patience to keep trying, so I shall chalk it up to experience and see how I feel about it when the table is finished.
The point of it being a side table next to the sofa is that I can hide the worst offending pieces at the back where they will not be seen

To make each 550 mm leg I cut a length more like 600mm long. To allow the prong drive and live centre to make dents that won’t be in the final piece. I marked the length of the leg and made a line around the still square stock to mark the main features.
170mm down from the top I marked the position of the pommel. Above which would remain square.
I also marked lines 20mm and 50mm up from the bottom which marked the point at which the foot would begin to taper into the leg and the point it would meet the leg.

Before mounting the blank on the lathe I marked the centre point at each end by drawing lines from corner to corner, and on the foot end I marked a point 15mm out from the centre towards one corner. If there were any defects in the wood I wanted to hide I made sure they were on the faces nearest the off-centre point As this will be the ‘inside’ of the table rather than the outside facing edges.

Mounted centrally first I cut the pommel such that I just reached the point of cutting all the way around, and allowed a few mm of complete rounded at this point beneath the pommel. Then I switched to the off-centre point. Made sure I had proper clearance for the now off centre spin, and that the lathe speed wasn’t too high. Happy that it wasn’t going to shake too much I began to work between the pommel and the top of foot line. To cut back to the cylinder that could be seen whilst it spun. E.g. cutting away the ghosting lines. It’s surprising how hard it is to really see where the outside edges are at this point so you have to be careful!
The idea was to blend the off centre tapered cylinder into the few mm of cylinder I’d turned straight. It’s this point that caused the most problems. The two legs I’m not happy with revealed that I had not been careful or consistent in that initial turning, and that my accuracy of centering was not always great. Such that the thickeness of leg at this point varied too much, and that affected the shape of the blending and the way the leg tapered. Though to be fair it was only really bad on the first one that went ‘wrong’ the second I was more aware of what was happening and compensated better.

Having cut the tapered leg I then refined the foot, cutting back until there was a single arc between the remaining two flat faces.
Then I tapered from me 20mm line back into the leg in a straight line. This is really not easy. Unlike the leg which you turn to round, just on a different axis. The foot piece remains off centre, so you need to get a good quality finish on a surface which is only in contact with the tool for a fraction of the rotation. A super sharp tool helps here.
I’d love to say I did well, but in fact I trusted to my ability to sand out the worst at a latter stage.

Each leg took me about 40 mins to turn. I certainly got quicker with each one, but I dread to think how much I’d have to sell a table like this for to account for the time it’s taken. Over two and a half hours just to turn the legs, before any of the mortising, sanding, varnishing, etc.

Having completed the legs I got to make up the side pieces that would join with mortice and tenon joints into the legs to form the base of the table. Cutting these was a joy, the first time I’ve had to such a thing whilst in possession of my bandsaw. It made very light work of cutting pieces to size then cutting the tenons, quickly and accurately. The only downside of this process was the finish on at least one side of each piece would need extensive planing or sanding to get out the marks left by the bandsaw. In the end I elected to use my belt sander. Which was slow, but probably less likely to make a mess of it than me with an electric planer.

Another tool which I own and appreciate a great deal at certain times is my pillar drill. Having marked out the mortices I drilled them out mostly with my pillar drill. Then it was relatively quick to clean them up and make them square with a sharp chisel.

I don’t have a good grasp on how long it took to get to this point. At a guess I’d say I probably spent another two and half hours with marking out/drilling/chiseling etc.

I actually made the top of the table before I started the legs. Well I say ‘made’ I cut some oak to thickness, and glued it up into a single table top. I also spent quite a lot of time trying to power sand the surface with an orbital sander. Again to remove the marks left by the bandsaw. This got boring so I moved on to the legs, and it sat for sometime  with more sanding required before I was  happly call it a finished table top. I suspect this is the main sort of activity that would make me really want a planer thickenesser. Trying to get a quality finish on what needs to be a large flat surface is very time consuming. But then how often am I really going to do such a thing? the table top took a good few hours of general work, much of which was sanding ;-(

The last things that I need to make before I can consider final construction are 2 spindles that will run between the legs on the long edges. They will attach into the square section of legs. This is because I decided that with a relatively tall table it would be nice to make use off the space beneath. My idea is to ask Kat to make a canvas ’sling’ which will have tabs that attach over each spindle. This will then provide space for magazines and such like beneath the table.

Here is one part turned, just roughing it down to a spindle

This seemed like a good idea. But turning 460mm spindles about 20mm diameter is not easy. I have no centre support so there is significant vibration when you make cuts in the centre. Additionally the accuracy of centring and indeed just how true and straight the piece is, effects how easy it is to get a consistent cylinder. I elected to make a couple small v-cuts to divide the length into 4, and shape the two centre sections slightly. This allowed me to hide a multitude of sins in the turning
Also I had to remind myself that these will be mostly hidden under canvas when finished, so I tried not to agonise over the detail.
Like the legs I actually turned a slightly longer piece. This time to allow me to turn round pegs on each end that will fit into the legs. I decided on 10mm as the drill bit I’d use, so I turned the ends down to this thickness.

These two spindles probably took another hour or so to turn, and with the table top and the sanding I must be looking at a project total so far of 12 hours.

But added to the leg structure they do look pretty good:

I assembled and glued both of the long sides of the table leg structure

It starts to get quite fun at this stage. After a great deal of making parts, you are starting to pu the structure together and see it take shape

The shot above is after the first of 2 coats of varnish. After the first coat I sanded back with 600grit

after the last coat I used 800 grit, just to smooth down the varnish coat.

At long last after what I am estimating somewhere between 13-16 hours (I didn’t keep close track so I’m not able to give a more refined estimate.)

The complete table:

a closer view of the finish on the table top

It’s pretty good, it’s not perfect, if you get really close you can see a slight glue join, if I make another table I’ll have to take more care on that initial join.

And finally here are a couple of shots of it in situe

and lastly (I promise) with general paraphernalia back in place

Ok so this has been a really long post, with probably too many pictures. But this has been about the most complicated piece of furniture I’ve made.

Before this I’ve made a floor standing dressing mirror which I’m simialrly pleased with, however that was pretty simple, where as this had 4 turned legs that all had to end up the same, and 2 spindles that similarly had to look identical-ish. It’s taken quite a lot of my time and energy in the last few weeks. I reckon that to make it worth while for selling I’d have to sell it for about £300 which is rather excessive I think. I think realistically I’d have to get faster at the whole process if I wanted to do it for anyone else. But for me I think it’s been workshop time well spent. I’m pleased with it, it’s not perfect but it looks much nicer than the metal and glass thing it replaces and that was the main objective.

HWA January meeting – Adrian Smith off-centre turning

A new year and already we’ve had the first good woodturning demonstration. This month Adrian Smith gave the demo
on off-centre turning.
There are a few signs which indicate someone takes woodturning seriously, one such sign was present on Adrian Smith… his own work smock with his name stitched on breast.

He started off by giving a top tip on making and expansion chuck for holding rings or any piece with a whole all the way through. Of course his examples were all off centre. Simply turn down a cylinder to the hole size, the cut down the middle on a bandsaw (not all the way). Then you can slide your piece onto the spiggot, and when you bring up the tailstock for support, the point will push apart the two sides thus providing an expansion and more grip.
This should be enough grip to even turn off centre.

Another idea he showed was a metal plate with single piece at right angles welded to the back. That can be gripped between two bits of a 4 jaw chuck. Hot glue gun your wood onto the faceplate. Then you can slide and adjust the panel in the chuck to adjust the off-centre amount.

Then he moved onto the first demo… making a paper knife, notable because one of the first demos I saw at the club was a paper knife. Adrian said he saw that demo and thought ‘I wouldn’t do it like that‘
Cut tenon on end that can be gripped in chuck between two jaws of the 4 jaw chuck. The other end can be supported by tailstock. You can line up tenon with edges of jaw to get centre. Then you can slide the tenon to change the centre. This is way simpler than the technique shown before. The main thing is that the previous technique scaled to production turning 4 at once. But this way is much easier for a single piece.

Pre push tail stock into each of the end centres before you cut away removing the support otherwise the pressure will just bend the wood and risk breaking away.

Divide the wood into squares running down its length to help guide the consistent of centering both ways.

Turn off centre one way moving the tenon to a mark and tail stock across the same amount. Then shift to the other side. To achieve the blade. Obviously turn down closer to middle as you go down the ‘blade’ length.
Another tip for demoing…When you have catch don’t stop to see it…turn it away then stop..

Once the blad is turned both sides shift back to centre to turn the handle.
Could be sanded on the lathe but just finished by hand often

Next project..

Making a fancy candlestick with off-centre turned discs down the stem.
Big ish cylinder/cone tapering to tailstock. With long spiggot on end so that it’s still in jaws when off’ centre Taking away material as much as poss to reduce weight whilst off-centre

Make a mark on wood and tape on chuck to allow setting back to this point. E.g. since it can get rotated when you switch centres, it helps to keep alignment.

Time for another tip.. .candle wax on the tool rest to aid even movement of the tool which helps for an even cut.

Draw a straight line across centre line on tail end.
Whilst spinning draw circles on end at intervals out. The point where the circle intersects with the straight line is even off-centre to each side. The various circles provide different amount of off centre.
Long’n’strong bowl gouge for cutting. Short grind on it. Wouldn’t use a spindle gouge on it.
Marked heavy lines down the length to show the different points to cut.
Set to first off centre point then straight V cut into the area turn until you turning all the way round but not so far that it drops off
Once done, move to another centre. If you follow a spiral path of centres you’ll get a spiral of off centres.
If you jump back and forth you’ll get a more haphazard arrangement.
You can turn such that you have 4 sections. 1,3 the same centre and 2,4 the same. Don’t need to sand finish the first until you’ve done the second at the same centre.
Once you’ve done a couple don’t tighten the tail stock too far..else you’ll snap off the end…since there is now not wood all the way between tailstock and head stock.
Another tip.. Sliding chisel back off a surface to feel where it starts to come back on. Can be easier than spotting by eye where the edge is.
Re-centre to do base and top dome. Shape the top size appropriate to candle type. Obviously a tea light needs more space. Better to face off the top before drilling. The drill bit needs to touch evenly to avoid stresses on the weakened frame.
Put brass or some candle fitment on top.

Demo 3 Turning a cube to an interesting bowl.

Close 4 jaw chuck up leaving small hole in middle, put corner of cube in hole. Put opposite corner in appropriate live centre..hollow centre for auger.
Cut spiggot on one end..will be the base.
If you catch too hard it will just stop as the friction is reasonably low.
Then turn around onto spiggot… you need to cut the spiggot relatively far in to get reasonable diameter to hold.
Now the opposite point is in live centre
round over the base down to chuck leaving square top.
Then remove tail so you can hollow out
don’t do the stem too thin. The grain is not running lenthwise so it will be liabe to snap.
Obviously as you hollow you’re creating three ‘wings’ the tips of which where the edges of the cube and the dips are the centre of the sides of cube.

Next tip.. When hollowing, don’t bother turning all the way to centre…leave small stub and cut under occasionally to let it drop away.
Superglue the edges to give rigidity to help get thin without break out.
Sand flat surfaces with sandpaper on block to keep them flat.
Used a ring tool to finish the hollowing

All in all another great and informative evening. Learned lots and picked up some good tips and techniques. My bowl gouge usage had been all wrong, just watching it done right helps a lot.
Harry was ill and unable to make it so I couldn’t get his opinion on my turning efforts, but Bill was on hand to set me a challenge for next month…a wine bottle coaster.

Since the last meeting I had a go at a letter opener. I made mine too short, but I was pleased with how the technique worked and I think next time I can get the proportions right.